Walking in the Mountains and Valleys of the Costa Blanca

Village Dishes

helenmawdsley@yahoo.com (Helen Mawdsley) — Tue, 15 Mar 2022 12:12:57 GMT

I love discovering new food!!

I’ve always been an adventurous eater, willing to give anything a go, it doesn’t always work out but I think well at least I tried.

I don’t know about you but I often see items on the menus around here but don’t know what they are so I’ve done a bit of research for you and compiled a list of our local village’s specialities. Most originate from the Balaerics from a time when the Moors were banished from the kingdom and the villages were re-populated with mainly Mallorcan people escaping a famine over there. The others from whatever was available from the land.

Murla: Coques or Coca

Which are like pizzas without the cheese usually topped with vegetables, especially peas or sobrasada (An Iberian pork sausage).

Parcent: Caracoles Estufados con Hinojo

Which is Snail (yes the ones found in your garden!) and fennel stew. I’m not entirely keen to try this one as not a fan of fennel let alone the garden snails. ��

Benigembla: Espencat

Which is roasted vegetables, normally peppers, onions and aubergines, with cod. (The cod can be substituted with tuna) It can be served warm or cold.

Lliber: Arroz al Horno .

I prefer this to the usual Paella, it’s baked rice with meat, potatoes, tomatoes, chickpeas and my favourite black sausage (Morcilla or Butifarra)

Jalon (Xalo): Empadillas de Guisantes

Basically crescents of pastry filled with peas.

Alcalali: Arroz con Alubias y Cardos:

A rice dish served with white beans and chard.

Senija: Buñuelos de Calabaza

These are a sweet dessert very much like our doughnuts.

Another dish you often see on the menu is Putxero con Pilotas , a very filling stew like dish with plenty of root vegetables, chickpeas and a sausage meat ‘pilota’ wrapped in cabbage leaves. It’s a firm favourite with the workers.

Other stew or rice dishes to try are:

Arroz y Fesols: Rice and broad beans

Arroz caracoles y nap (nips) : Rice with snails and turnips

Mullador : Roasted vegetables, tuna and cous cous

Boreta de Melva : A tuna, tomato and sun dried pepper salad.

So now you know, time to get out and be adventurous….Enjoy!!

A Tour of Bodega Gutierrez in Parcent

helenmawdsley@yahoo.com (Helen Mawdsley) — Thu, 09 Dec 2021 10:53:47 GMT

A Wine Tour and History of the Bodega

We've been planning a trip to this Bodega for ages but with the Covid restrictions it was impossible until now.

This is the Bodega that provided the dessert wine for the Queen's wedding and it's in our little village!

The tour was at 11.30am on a boiling hot August morning, we all met at the enormous front door and Mr Gutierrez led us to a side entrance.

The building was originally an old mill and in 1982 they took it over so they could expand their business, not just of wine but of vinegar, oil and honey too.

To say the house has a wow factor is an understatement.

Designed in an Arabic style, the traditional blue and white floor tiles complete the look and continue through the house leading you from room to room.

We're told the blue and white are the colours of Javea where Mrs Gutierrez's family were from and where the business began.

From the entrance room we pass through a very unique kitchen comprising of an old style including 3 wood ovens and a modern part with an enviable cooking range.

The original well, although unused now adds even more character to the room.

As with most of the Spanish townhouses, this had that Tardis feeling as we passed through the kitchen and through double doors leading into an Arabic style courtyard complete with fountain.

The balcony above had the Arabic shaped arches giving it a completely authentic look.

If I could have a courtyard I'd want it exactly like this!

We were shown the dining room at the end of the house which is used for the tastings in Winter which had spectacular views of Coll de Rates.

We were then led down a stunning stairway, down into the cellar.

Recondita Armoni was the first and original wine produced here and at the bottom of the stairs they have a collection of casks celebrating the births of each of the 3 children and now the Grandchild.

The cellar is gloriously cold as we enter, though I'm sure a coat is required for Winter tastings.

The enormous room is built deep underground, the 'living' walls provide the right humidity levels and temperature for the wine.

It was full of casks on one side, made from every kind of wood for different results. He had the usual oak, French and American but also Hungarian and Caucasion.

There was an area for the vats, a working area for bottling and labelling and another part dedicated to the storage of the wine in bottles.

And so to the wine tasting!

The wines are made primarily from three varieties; Monastrell, Muscat and Giro coming from several different vineyards in the Valencia/Alicante regions.

He produces 12 different wines, many more if you include picking a year! We got to try 7 so I only think I can remember them all, must take notes next time!

Firstly we tried a really fruity dry Moscatell, Casta Diva Golden Harvest which was popular with all.

Casta Diva is the name used for many of his wines. The Diva part comes from his love of the Arts, this one being Maria Callas but also apparent in all the names of his wines and labels.

The second was another white; Monte Diva which I thought quite appropriate for us walkers, it literally tasted of a mountain walk with the thyme and rosemary quite apparent.

We moved on to a couple of reds, one called Rojo y Negro,(Stendhal) red and black followed by the Ulysses (James Joyce).

We cheekily then asked to try his most expensive wine, a sweet red, which he obliged at which point we all wished we were rich!

We moved back into the cask room to sample the last couple of wines direct from the cask.

The final tasting was from the Recondita Armonia collection, between us we tried 3 different years but there were enough different barrels here to make a tasting session on it's own, ranging from 2001 to present day.

No tour is complete without a trip to the shop!! We all obligingly bought a bottle or two to take home.

Bernia Forat and Fort

helenmawdsley@yahoo.com (Helen Mawdsley) — Thu, 12 Oct 2017 16:33:26 GMT

The imposing craggy Sierra Bernia at 1129m is not the highest around here but definitely one of the most spectacular. It divides the Costa Blanca from North to South creating the Marina Alta and Marina Baja. It has many fabulous walks to do on it but this is the most popular. It includes a crawl through the rock spine of the mountain, stunning views and a fort with loads of history thrown in.

We drive 650m up to start the walk at the 'Casas de Bernia' so the views are pretty good to begin with.

Then it's good paths and fantastic view of the crags of Bernia all the way to the Font.

It's quite an elaborate font, an essential one in the early days for the traders and their animals travelling over this mountain and for the hill farmers. Flowing fully, it's still in use today.

..well maybe overflowing!

The walk takes you passed some amazing rock formations. With the one I felt like I was walking in to the jaws of a rock monster!

We had a youthful group hot on our heels so we pressed on a little quicker. They caught us up at the crossing of the gorge.

I was glad to see I wasn't the only one a little nervous at crossing it. We later found out there is another route avoiding it.

So we find the Forat and in we go.

I'm thankful Gareth chose to photograph me on my way down to my knees and not on them. I was actually just short enough not to have to crawl. It's just over 18m long but you can make it without torches.

And then you're on the other side, the view is breathtaking, the sea opens up in front of you and you join the others who have made it to one of the best picnic spots around.

After a pit spot we were then back on our way, now heading west across the mountain towards the Fort.

It's the type of walk where you have to watch where you are stepping so you have to stop every now and then to enjoy the views with Sierra Aitana majestic in the distance.

Probably just me but I thought he looked like a big chinned rock soldier protecting his crags.

This photo shows how well strategically placed the fort was. It was designed by Juan Bautista for Felip II in 1562 to protect against marauding Moors and pirates from the south.

It comprised of several buildings including a Church, Priests house and an Infirmary.

There was also a Butchery, Flour and wine warehouses making up 8,000m2 floor space in total.

I love this photo, it looks like the arches of the Fort have melded with the mountain behind.

It was active for 51 years but dismantled in 1612 under orders from Felip III.

You can see the scale of why Bernia Fort was very difficult to reach from other directions.

Time to head back. A last longing glance at the crags and we head back following the path north and east down to the starting point.

We headed in to one of the Bernias restaurants for more great views whilst we had our mandatory half.

Walking, Wine and Tapas in Spring

helenmawdsley@yahoo.com (Helen Mawdsley) — Sat, 01 Jul 2017 19:39:06 GMT

Day 2 -Parcent to Murla

The sun shone as we headed out for our first walk from Parcent to Murla. Although a sleepy village now, Murla was once the capital of the Vall de Pop. It has the oldest church in the Valencian region, said to be built in the 14thC.

We had several encounters with with the local wildlife including mating frogs and about a hundred hungry sheep, some who just couldn't wait!

We visited the village itself and caught a game of Pilota in action, had a look around the new church and its strange tower then headed for shade in the woods above the old Stations of the Cross for our pit-stop.

Then had a lovely return ambling through the forests and farmland. It had been quite a long walk and we all couldn't wait for our Paella at L'Eras.

Day 3 - El Arcs

It was over to Castell de Castells for today's walk to see the amazing Rock Arches. We took a quick detour to see a well preserved 'well', complete with billy can and water, then it was onwards and upwards to see the arches.

It was a great place to have a banana spot although Kumari had us all worried as she decided she would like to walk through the arches! Certainly had me up in a flash! We then headed back down to find our lovely grassy knoll to have lunch on.

We had time for a quick brush up and change before our guided tour of Parcents Bodega. A family run Bodega led by Armando, a man clearly passionate about his wines! I was acting as translator, although by the look on his face I may not have been 100% accurate!

We had a fascinating tour around the Bodega followed by a tasting of their wines and exquisite tapas.

Day 4 - History of Jalon Walk

Taking a break under the tree with a broken heart

Carmen's turn to lead the walk; giving us a brief history of Jalon, the Riu Raus and the raisin production. As we walked around the vineyards of Jalon we learnt about the unique way this region turned grapes to raisins via the scalding method and saw the unique buildings they built for this purpose.

We visited the Basset del Arcs and found out that at one point most of the children in Jalon learnt to swim in that basin. Carmen also pointed out the very large houses that were built with the wealth from the raisin era.

We stopped for a tasting of the local tapas in one of the original Riu Raus and recharged for another quick march back to Parcent.

This time just to retrieve the car for our drive up to the 'must see' magnificent Bernia, then over to the remote village of Pinos to eat whilst enjoying the views.

Day 6 - Coll de Rates & Pla de Petracos

We split up today for the start of the walk. The three Musketeers; Gill, Mel, Kumari and I took on Coll de Rates. Whilst...

Gareth and Chris took a less mountainous walk to Pla de Petracos, a World Heritage Site containing cave paintings over 5,000 years old.

We all joined up at the top of Coll de Rates for our picnic. It was a little windy but with the panoramic vistas and a little wine, no-one seemed to mind.

We returned to Jalon for a tour and tasting at the Xalo co-operative who have recently won two awards for their Mistela. It's a much bigger commercial enterprise than the Parcent Bodega and they ship their wine as far as China.

Playing the clown as usual but not sure what I'm doing here, although it is pre-tasting!!

Day 7 - Fontilles and Campell, The Caballo Verde Ridge & The Hidden Valley

We had a very busy final day; we all headed up into the picturesque Vall de Laguar and divided into two groups: Chris, Kumari and I heading off on a forest trail taking in Fontilles (A small village surrounded by a giant wall opened originally in 1906 as a leprosy sanatorium), and the quaint village of Campell.

Whilst Gill, Mel and Gareth took on the historic Caballo Verde Ridge walk. Said to be the place of the final stand of all the remaining Moors, it boasts magnificent views both costal and inland.

Gill and Mel were lucky enough to see some orchids on their mountain walk so now with Orchid fever we jumped back in the car and headed to Lliber's Hidden Valley. Home at the right time of year (usually March) to several varieties.

This time the orchids eluded us but had been replaced by some equally stunning wildflowers including this vibrant Spanish Broom.

The ladies spent the rest of the afternoon by their pool, even swimming! (Brave for early April!), before returning to our villa for a final Spanish themed evening. We enjoyed tapas and paella with local Spanish wines, then danced along with Abelado.

A great evening to finish a fantastic week.

A walk to the Benimeli Aerials on the Sierra Segaria

helenmawdsley@yahoo.com (Helen Mawdsley) — Mon, 09 Jan 2017 18:14:13 GMT

It was perfect walking weather, dry, sunny and a crisp 14 degrees when we met in the Benimeli village square for the start of the walk.

After leaving the village it is basically straight up and we soon warmed up enough to stop and enjoy the first of the great views.

Then it was onwards and upwards, which could be a challenge for the in-initiated and the group had naturally split into two by the time we reached our banana break spot.

It was the site of an old finca, a large flattened out area with plenty of 'rock seats' and great views across the valley to the Caballo de Verde ridge.

The group further divided as we climbed to the aerials, it was an easy path to follow so everyone could just take it at their own pace. It was good to see my walking partners still smiling as we reached the summit.

Finally we all join together at the aerials and we all pose for the obligatory photo

It was quite a clear day, the sea was a stunning blue and we could see all the way to Valencia in one direction,

and the Montgo in the other.

Rosemary kindly posed for me so I could capture the paddy fields in the background which belong to part of the Marjal Natural Park, a keen favourite with the bird watchers.

With lunch and photos over we made our way back down, with the hard bit done we had a relaxed walk catching up with the other members of the group.

After the main descent we had a nice stroll through the village past an obvious lover of Bourganvillea. There were 6 different colour varieties!

Then off to the bar for a well deserved half in the beautiful village! Although the barman didn't seem too happy at 20 people descending upon him without notice, especially as he had to set up two long tables to accommodate us.

Somebody was obviously very entertaining at the other end of the table at the time of my photo!

The Journey of the Olive

helenmawdsley@yahoo.com (Helen Mawdsley) — Thu, 08 Dec 2016 11:38:44 GMT

We met in Jalon (Xalo) to personally experience the production of Olive Oil, from collecting the Olives with a local farmer to the process of extracting the oil from them.

Although it was a glorious morning the ground was still very muddy from the previous rain and I was seriously glad I'd put my boots on.

It seems one of the difficulties in farming olives is in the harvest. Because the olives ripen individually over about 4 weeks, by the time the last ripen the first have rotted. That's why you see some fallen olives on the ground before the farmers put their nets out.

It's quite hard work collecting olives so when we had finished we took a relaxing stroll just a couple of terraces up to see some old gnarly olive trees said to be possibly two thousand years old.

Surrounded by anything over a thousand years old wouldn't be an everyday event, but standing in the heart of a living tree maybe two thousand years old is once in a lifetime event, unless of course you live here!

It was a lovely area so we stopped to admire and photograph the views. We were curious of the contrasting soils from one side of the plot to the other and apart from the terracotta soil and the mountains we thought it had an English countryside feel to it.

Then it was off over the mountain, a nice drive in itself, to Tarbena where we were directed to this small innocuous looking building; home of the Olive Press.

The machinery seemed as old as the olive trees but was in perfect working order. This first machine drew the olives into the crusher and turned them into paste. This paste is then churned to allow miniscule drops of oil to agglomerate.

The paste is then placed on these weaved plates, which are then all stacked up and placed on the press which is used to separate the oil from the pulp. The remaining pulp is called Pomace and it still contains small amounts of oil only extractable by using chemicals, therefore cannot be classed as Virgin oil.

To complete the transition to usable olive oil, the released oil from the press goes through the distiller and is refined. Well I say refined but I don't think you'll find any of this in Sainsburys, this is used by the local farming families. Most of the olives around here are for personal use only; olives in exchange for oil.

We had time to have a quick look around the local church, we were surprised to see how grand and ornate it was and quite large considering the total population here is just over 700.

This is very typical Spanish life to just pull a chair outside and socialise. We asked the guys if we could take a photo of them, which they agreed but not sure how happy they were about it.

Then it was off for a coffee at the renown Bar Can Pinet, famous for its owner, an elderly gentleman which a penchant for Fidel Castro and all things communist. The bar inside is like a museum, definitely worth a view!!

The one handed owner made an appearance and insisted we tried the local wine, we had no idea when we first agreed that it would consist of having the wine squirted into our mouths.

(A few interesting facts; the quality of olive oil is judged by a panel of tasters, with one of the main parameters being its acidity. Extra Virgin oil contains no more than 0.8% free acidity and it is predominantly produced in Greece, Italy and Spain slightly less. Other olive producing countries only produce less than 10% of Extra virgin from their crops; such is the superiority of the Mediterranean olive.

The term first press is meaningless today as there is never a second press (it refers to the old traditional stone presses).

A Wealth of Landscapes to Discover

helenmawdsley@yahoo.com (Helen Mawdsley) — Thu, 01 Dec 2016 14:54:17 GMT

When people think of the Costa Blanca they generally think of summer holidays on the coast but as many are discovering the inland valleys are the perfect setting for outdoor pursuits. Walkers, mountaineers and cyclists have been flocking to the area in recent years and it's no wonder why.

It boasts over 300 days of sunshine a year, has mild winter temperatures and especially in recent years, has very little rain making it ideal for winter walking.

It has a mountainous landscape which attracts the adventurers; the limestone rock creates fascinating formations, deep gorges and some impressive crags. The well-used paths make the climbs easy to achieve and you are rewarded at the top with panoramic views across the valleys to the sea.

The forest and fruit groves however are loved by the strollers and nature lovers.

Stunning wildflowers and birds can be found in abundance and scents of rosemary and thyme fill the air as you brush against them as you walk.

February is particularly special when the whole valley turns pink and white with almond blossom and in March the scent of the beautifully pungent orange blossom fills the air.

For the historians both the walks and the villages are a wealth of treasures; you can follow routes documenting the travels of the traders via their wells and ice houses, or see the incredible terraces and the wheat thrashing fields of the exiled moors high in the mountains.

You can also discover the old traditional ways of turning grapes to raisins in the specially built arched fronted buildings called Riu Raus, or how the olives are pressed and of course how they make their wine.

The villages still retain their traditional charm as life has changed very little here. The narrow streets radiate downwards from the church and it's bell tower, the old houses are adorned with flower pots and railings, where the locals pull their chairs outside and socialise in the street and fiestas seem to happen every week.

We want to give you a taste of everything about the area, some of the history, the stunning scenery, the amazing food and wine and of course great walks, but also a chance to relax and enjoy this tranquil countryside, Spanish style.